Friday, July 27, 2012

Rapunzel Dress Part 1

I mentioned that my neighbor wants me to record my costume-creating process, so here it goes!

The first part is study, so I Googled Rapunzel images and saved the best ones, then looked for tutorials.  This website was insanely helpful.

During my study I noticed something convenient: Rapunzel's bodice sort of resembled the top for the pirate costume I made Chaela last year.  Score!  That meant that I could use that same pattern with a few minor alterations.  When I alter patterns I never destroy the original in case it can be reused (in fact I'm reusing this one two or three times this year).  The picture below is the pattern for the sleeve of the top.  The red lines are from when I resized the pattern last year, since the smallest size on there was a 7 and Chaela wore a 3.  The green lines are from this year, it's shorter because the sleeve on the Rapunzel dress is a short sleeve (though the sheer part extents to 3/4 length).  The easiest way I've found to create new pattern pieces is to take a good marker (one that's not drying out at all), lay the pattern piece over some tissue paper or whatever it is you want to use for your cutting pattern, and trace over every single line with the marker.  It will bleed through the original pattern paper onto whatever is behind it, so I feel like it's easier and more accurate than trying to trace around the edges.


So I do that to every pattern piece until I have all the ones I need.  Behold!


 I use tissue paper from presents in bags people have given someone in my house.  Side note: I ran out of tissue paper for patterns last night, so any presents would be appreciated.  Ha ha.

Next I cut the pattern out of muslin and sew it up really quick so I can try it on whomever it is for and make the necessary adjustments.  While trying this muslin on Chaela I discovered that I needed to make it a teeny bit bigger on the bottom but take it in about an inch under the arms.  I also discovered that the sleeve was about 3/4 of an inch too long and was able to experiment with the sheer fabric that makes up the bottom of the sleeve.


When I'm satisfied that all the bugs are worked out I cut out the real fabric and start on the actual top, which takes a lot longer than the muslin thanks to the fact that it's lined (the pattern is laid out on the dark purple lining in the picture).




I may or may not have accidentally sat on the top while sewing the petticoat, which is why it is wrinkly.  Obviously it isn't finished yet, but Chaela is visiting her grandparents for a few days and I don't want to go any further before I try it on her.  Once that lining is on, there will be no more tweaking the seams.

So I made the pattern and muslin for the skirt which, since I decided it would fit her (and hopefully am right) I went ahead and finished because it's doing double duty as the petticoat.  For this I just made a pattern piece.  I've seen a lot of skirts, so I winged it.  The piece is fairly narrow at the top and broadens out at the base.  I used a measuring tape to make sure that the length of the piece was consistent, meaning 23 inches long at each side, in the middle, and all points in between.  I wanted the skirt to be fairly full, so I cut six of these from the muslin and sewed them together.  Then I added a simple waistband and threaded it with elastic, hemmed it, and added the lace on the bottom.  Since I love fancy details and my machine has a few basic embroidery stitches, I put a band of embroidery around the bottom.




I am afraid that the petticoat may be a bit too long, but if that's the case instead of taking it off the awesome bottom of the skirt I'll cut a few inches from the top and re-attach the waistband.

So that's what I have so far!  I'm at a bit of a standstill on it until Chaela gets home and can try things on, and I can't start Joci's because I don't have her measurements either.  My preliminary idea for Joci's is to use this pattern once again to help me shape the bodice, but instead of having a separate skirt I'll extend the pieces I draw into a dress (if that makes sense).  I'll also have to do some other minor alterations, like change the shape of the neckline.  Fun times!

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